Bodh Gaya: Standing up from the Ruins (Bihar, INDIA)
Why a travel blog should
be titled - “Standing up from the ruins?”
Let me tell you a brief
story of Bodh Gaya which you might have heard from the gentry, from the sentry,
from guides and everyone else. The story is there in the ruins. We all know the
history of India hanging in a fine balance of myth and reality. Some myths seem to be too magical to be real. The East India Company who which ruled
India for almost two centuries should be credited for a few things. The team had recorded railways, Archaeological excavations and impartial reporting of incidents. The men of arts are dreamers. They lack funds but
not the zeal, so one dreamer named Mr Alexander Cunningham in The 1880s tried resurrecting history. I am a lover of culture and arts. The
life of Buddha has always dragged me to mountains, especially Himalayas. The
journey cannot be complete without visiting the lands where a man called
Siddhartha Gautama walked- Kushinagar, Lumbini, Sarnath and Bodh Gaya. There
were two legendary men (Mahavira and Buddha) two and half thousand years ago who challenged the
“status quo”, they challenged highly orthodox and casteist society prevailing
in those times and made things simpler for commoners. Gautama himself propagated no “isms”… but taught the middle way where a man hinges and remains happy. So impactful was the thought an Emperor like Ashoka who massacred
many in his conquests turned to the spiritual path….. (sorry, I could not find any
close word to spiritual… because it arises from the root of spirits and Buddha
himself never believed in spirits). Ashoka himself sent his children to Sri
Lanka and other south Asian countries to propagate the Buddhist philosophy. Sanghamitra–daughter of Ashoka who became a nun, went to Sri Lanka with Bodhi tree and thus
Sri Lanka imbibed Buddhism. Sri Lankan people always felt gratitude for India for the
religion they accepted. They always come back to this place in reverence.
The story is important. Sri Lankan's contribution cannot be narrated in a blog
but can be gauged from the fact they resurrected the ruins of Mahabodhi temple
with the help of few British men who had a passion for history.
Travel:
One can reach by road, trains and air to Bodh Gaya. There is an airport in Bodh Gaya with direct flights.
If one comes by train, he can connect Inter-city trains which have a good
frequency. The trains reach in 2:30 hours to 3:00 hours depending on whether
they are express or super-fast. From Gaya to Bodh Gaya, one needs to take Auto
which can charge Rs.150-400/-. A good bargain will help you around Rs.200/-.
There are local buses from Gaya to Bodh Gaya which I would not suggest as they
leave very far away from the destination.
Gaya itself is an
important destination for Hindus who come for “Shraad puja”. If one is going
for Shraad puja, I would suggest to be careful and take proper references for
local pundits before reaching Gaya. This part of India is economically
backward, and business is scarce. The religious tours are the source of economy
beside agriculture. Bodh Gaya is boiling hot between April and August. If one
cannot endeavour temperatures of 40-45 degrees, one should not visit during
these months. The season starts from September as temperatures get tapered by
monsoon rains.
AIR:
Direct Flights to Bodh
Gaya. Another way- Flight to Patna and then board a train from Patna Railway
Station. Patna- Gaya- Regular trains express and passenger between
2.00-3:00 hours. Gaya to Bodh Gaya: Auto
TRAIN:
Few direct trains are
available from Mumbai/ Delhi.
BUS:
Bus service also
available from Patna and Gaya. Roads are not well maintained , hence I would
not suggest any traveller.
FOOD:
The food is typically North
Indian. There is no paucity of hotels which offer decent food. The food is between Rs.200-350 per head in Air Conditioned restaurants near the Main
temple complex. The road site stalls near the Chinese temple offer Thupka ,
Noodles which will satisfy the platter of pilgrims from China, Korea, Japan
etc. Non-veg is also easily available at the locations. Bihar being
non-alcoholic state, you will have to follow at least one Buddhist precept! If
you want to enjoy Bihari delicacy of Litti -chokha , you can get at stalls in
Bodh Gaya. (Try–Nirvana Veg Café, Tibetan Café. You can also enjoy Café Coffee
Day and Barista)
SHOPPING:
There are many Tibetan shops
which offer statues, amulets, figurines and flags which reflect Tibetan culture.
You will find vendors selling Pipal leaves with Buddha posters and that will
be in the range from Rs.20-200, depending upon bargaining strength of buyer. There
are shops which sell granite, marble statues as well and you can surely visit a
shop-Buddha Statue maker-near Surya Guest House. (Opp Jagadish Park).
Handicrafts items, meditation cushions, Thangka paintings are available mostly
from September to March. I had visited twice to Bodh Gaya and had purchased
exquisite Thangka paintings from Ambedkar market area during winter. Most of the Tibetan vendors are from Dharmashala who come in season
time to sell their merchandise.
Bodh Gaya is a holy place.
Always keep shoes outside any temple.
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Picture Blogs
1) MAHABODHI TEMPLE: (ENTRANCE VIEW)
The temple has a rich history. A British- Alexander Cunningham and Sri Lankan-Anagarika Dharmapala resurrected the ruins. The
height of the temple is close to 180-200 ft. and is difficult to capture the
beauty of the temple in one camera frame. The main temple is no more commanded by
the ‘Matha’ which existed in the campus but Hindu deity remains of Shiva Linga
is still under Pancapandava temple. The statues if seen are nothing but
statues of Buddha in different postures.
The temple from the entry point. The pink
structure has statues which were constructed by temple Mahants .
2) STUPAS IN THE MAHABODHI TEMPLE COMPLEX:
Stupas
inside the campus of the temple.
These
stupas have been made beautifully made over a period.
3) SCRIPTURES ON THE STONE
Several inscriptions like left are there on the left
side of the entrance. These are written in Hindi, Tibetan and English.
These are from important texts from Pali and Sanskrit
canon. The one on the left is of “dependent
origination” which is one of the important sutras and basic foundation of
Buddhist thought.
There are “King
of Concentration Sutra” , “Sutra
requested by Ananvatapata ” , “Udanavargatika ”
etc.
If you have read the texts or heard the
teachings somewhere, you will appreciate the fact, that someone has taken an effort to engrave and refresh while you circumvent the temple.
4) THE BACK OF TEMPLE- RIVER GROUNDS
At
the back of the Bodhi temple, a Niranjana river flows, which swells up during
the monsoon season. They say it, Lord Buddha crossed the river to the place of
Bodhi tree, where he got enlightenment. He had thrown his dish in water to
check if it sustains the current and he is actually a Buddha. The dish floated,
and it gave immense strength and pursue meditation under the Bodhi Tree.
5) FLOWER BED INSIDE TEMPLE
Sudden colours distract the sombre greyish colours albeit pleasantly.
The
picture of yellow in the stoic temple background just makes the things
colourful. The gentlemen keep doing their jobs and keep Bodhi temple coloured
with the natural fragrance.
6) PREPARATION FOR DAILY PUJA:
Tibetan
Monks at early morning preparing for morning prayers and rituals. The temple is
surrounded by a few Tibetan monasteries.
7) STUPAS ON TEMPLE CREST
The
stupas on the temple. The left one is famous Buddhist philosopher. Guess who?
Write to me.
8) MUCALINDA LAKE
It is said that Lord Buddha spent sixth week of
enlightenment under the shade of Mucalinda tree near the lake. When Mara tried
to disrupt the concentration of Lord, The Nagaraja entwined Buddha from head to
toe so that he could carry on with meditation.
This story you can relate to Hindu deity as
well . (Krishna and Kalia nag, Krishna at birth with Vasudeva)
9) SRI LANKAN TOURISTS
At any point of year , you will find Sri Lankan
tourists in the area.
10) THE TREE OF ENLIGHTENMENT: BODHI TREE
The tree of enlightenment. I did meditate for some
time twice in two years and did not reach the level which Buddha reached! The Actual tree must have been felled before, the existing tree was replanted as per records.
11) THE STUPAS WITH TIBETAN SCRIPTURES
A stupa at the Mahabodhi temple premises. The Blue
colour adds colour to the greyish background.
12) PIGEON
A Boddhisatva Pigeon could not deter the Buddha!
13) WAITING
A child waiting for selling lotuses for offering at the gate. Its 4:00 AM whether
cold December or hot June, the kids at the gate wait for the customers. The
eyes of the Boy says it all.
14) THE SAFE KEEPERS:
The
shoe houses keep the slippers and shoes in safe custody and you can deposit
mobiles and valuables here. Mobiles are not allowed inside temple . Still Camera
charges Rs.100/-
15) SUJATA STUPA
This
is in reverence to Sujata who as per the different texts was from affluent
family which could be of landlord or some stories tell cowherd’s daughter. She
offered weak Gautama, rice dish after which gave him enough strength
to meditate to reach enlightenment. This vihara is about a kilometre from Bodhi
temple. The stupa is said to be built by King Devapala.
16) SUJATA TEMPLE
Emancipated Buddha being offered kheer rice dish. The temple is said to be made by Burmese monks.
17) SCHOOL AT SUJATA TEMPLE
A
little girl gave me Victory signal for my journey.
You will find beggars in the
area, please avoid and focus on the journey.
18) AN UNVISITED TEMPLE- EMACIPATED BUDDHA TEMPLE
A
temple revered by both Buddhists and Hindus. It is said that a Tibetan monk
meditated in the well here. Also, emaciated Buddha mediated here, before
crossing the river!
19) MUSHARS COMMUNITY:
A community at the outskirts of village . (On way back
from Sujata Kuti)
Why I captured the snap?
This community is plagued by the casteism of the worst
sort and hence live at the roadside. Poorest of poor, they used to eat “mouse”
for feeding themselves. The water tanks above their houses given as a donation by
Sri Lankan Government.
20) DAMAGED STATUES
An
ancient damaged statue lying abandoned at the gates of the temple.
21) SACRED WELL
A Well -in which aTibetan monk took Samadhi.
22) SACRED HILLS: Besides
the Niranjana river, Bakror village are the hills which are sacred to
Buddhists. The legend says that Buddha walked from hills to the river and went to
Mahabodhi tree to meditate to reach enlightenment. This is near to
Dungheswari Cave temples.
23) HUGE BANYAN TREE
The
Tree must wait for the next Buddha for sure. Just a stone throw away from the
river.
24) TARA TEMPLE NOW A DURAGESJWARI TEMPLE:
This
is a picture was taken near Niranjana river, Durgeshwari temple. Durgeshwari statue
had replaced Tara statue which is considered being female Buddha. A stupa
amidst the shiva lingams is an amazing feature out here. Offbeat location,
unvisited!
25) 80 FEET STATUE OF BUDDHA
26) TIBETAN TEMPLE
A
Tibetan temple in front of Mahabodhi temple. It’s a home for HH the Dalai Lama when
he is in Bodh Gaya. HH give teachings almost every year during winters! You can
book for teachings from his official website.
27) A THAI TEMPLE:
A Thai
temple, near Museum of Archaeology. This is one of the oldest temples and dates
back to 1957. It enshrines a gold statue of Buddha.
28) A BEAUTIFUL TEMPLE- SILVER WHITE
A
silver white Thai temple. There are many Thai temples, but this one is
marvellous.
29) KARMAPA TEMPLE
This
temple is the largest Tibetan temple dedicated to Kagyupa sect. Hollywood star
Richard Gere is a regular visitor to this place. The temple is said to be
established in 1938.
30) A MONGOLIAN TEMPLE:
31) MAHABODHI SOCIETY OF INDIA:
Anagarika
Dharmapala founded the Dharmashala in 1901. The history of the place reflects
fight among Mahants and Buddhists. Buddhists did not had a place to stay, hence
Dharmapala founded this inn to help monks.
32) ROOT INSTITUTE OF WISDOM
A Buddhist centre in
the Tibetan tradition in Bodhgaya, India, providing a tranquil haven for
the study and practice of philosophy & meditation. The above two photos are
of institute. It is over 30 years in its existence and the institute lot
of humanitarian work which includes modern education for poor children and a
healthcare unit. It is two kilometres away from the main temple. It is part of FMPT
framework of the foundation of Lama Zopa Rinpoche and Lama Yeshe. The other centres
are there in Dharmashala, Bangalore and Goa.
33) DEEP MEDITATION
A Theravada monk at Mahabodhi temple.
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I have tried to cover blog in picture format and have removed usual
locations. I would be keen to have your feedback/queries on nachhiketa@oulook.com.
It would thrill me to answer queries.
S Rahul
Founder
The Path less Travelled
Offbeat Travels
Visit : www. tpltweb .com
Visit
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Credits: A lot of historical and legendary tales narrated by my friend Jackie in Bodh Gaya.
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteDelightful blog..thank you for your wonderful overview of the history, richness and vibrancy of Bodhgaya - past and present.
ReplyDeleteThanks- sir encouraging words. Shall keep posting such blogs
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